To be surf stoked…
When you live this close to the beach and have the opportunity to surf frequently, it’s easy to forget the amazing feeling you got off surfing when you first started. Trust me, it’s nice to see how happy and quickly addicted people get on surfing. But it’s specially significant when this person isn’t just a random tourist that just experienced a cool new thrill… this person is a world champ, this person competes in the Olympics. In other words a fellow human just a “bit” more traveled and experienced than the “average Joe”… now that’s the understatement of the year! So it’s easy to take notice of this enthusiasm when one hears a celebrity describing with such joy his experience with surfing, namely at Ocean Ferrel Surf camp, here at Europe’s surf Mecca, Peniche, in sunny central Portugal. But why take my word when you can learn from his own words, yes, first person testimony, I give you Andrey…
I’m Andrey Kraytor and this is what we are talking about, what we are feeling, what we love. What is surfing for me and how surfing changed my life. Before, I started to learn how to surf, and all it’s culture Surfing has been for me like a dream, and I thought of it like a hobby, active rest or something like that but it is not.
What have I found out?
First of all surfing is freedom, freedom in the ocean, on the beach, under the sun, by the Atlantic wind, sand everywhere, in your ears, shoes, all your clothes
Freedom in communication of all this world stream.
Surfing is a lifestyle
Surfing is a philosophy
Surfing is a different perspective of the world
When I first came to Ocean Ferrel Surf Camp it was in winter time, then met Rui and he told me to relax, relax, and relax – have fun, go surfing! Now I truely believe him and follow his wise words.
He is my surf and life guru and i keep trying to learn from him not just in surfing.
First of all surfing starts not only on the waves, not only from when paddling
First of all you need to put on the wetsuit and it’s no easy thing to do but this is part of it all, the process, the ritual and you either love it or hate this
I love this, even in my mind I think and I know I can say that this is what I have been searching for all along, this special feeling.
Some people think that surfing is like a fight against the ocean and the first time I thought so too
I’m a sportsman.
So I have muscle power and one week I “fought” the ocean.
So, for this I tried to paddle to the line up and spent around half an hour and finally I recognized that the ocean beat me.
First and foremost surfing in general at Ocean Ferrel Surf Camp is technical action and also theory to understand how the Ocean works.
To learn where the waves are coming from.
How to place your body on the surfboard and feel when you need to paddle.
When you need to stand up and then, again paddle paddle paddle!
The second part is that surfing is making love with the waves.
You need to learn about the waves to be in love with the waves and after that she (the waves) may collaborate with you
this means you will feel at least 10-15 second of pure magic, a feeling absolutely unique, something new freedom.
When you’re out at the line up the mind is totally clean, it’s an amazing thing.
I’m thinking about nothing, just focused on the ocean.
In that moment I’m also a small part of the ocean , I need to be the ocean in order to ride the waves and that’s why all you’re attention and brain is focused on the outside, looking for a peak
For each set of waves, one is always better.
After my first surf camp experience
I started to be seek about waves
All of my following vacations or free days
I need to be close to the waves
Near the ocean
How has it changed my life? Simply and basically, my life is divided in pre surf and post surf
It changes your beliefs. Your priorities shift.
I’ve been to so many different places to surf… from Sri Lanka, to Lanzarote. Still nothing compares to Peniche, Portugal, by far the best place for surfing, honestly the only place I can imagine myself living year round.
Relax, relax, relax – have fun, go surfing! Thank you Ocean Ferrel Surf Camp 🙂